Becoming a Sushi Chef

Why does it take so long to become a sushi chef in Japan? Part of the answer is in the rice...

As sushi becomes a mainstay in Western cuisine, it’s tempting to think of it as just rice and raw fish. But that would be misleading, to say the least. First of all, sushi doesn’t have to include raw or even cooked fish. Second, in good sushi, much less in excellent sushi, many connoisseurs consider rice to be the most crucial ingredient.

Of course, the fish must be fresh, but less-than-stellar rice can ruin even the best slice. Consistency, temperature, and flavor of the rice all affect the taste and experience of consuming a piece of sushi.

The word sushi, in fact, comes from the words su (vinegared or tart) and me-shi (cooked rice), revealing rice as the fundamental ingredient. Sushi chefs have their own secret blend of rice from different locations, and even more closely guard their top-secret recipe for the exact combination and amount of vinegar, sugar, salt, and rice.

Traditional arts in Japan are taught through an apprentice system, and making perfect rice is definitely an art. So after only after an appreciable length of time, doing the most menial chores and absorbing the workings of the kitchen, is an apprentice allowed to begin making rice. It can take another several years to perfect the final product.

So what are the steps to making good sushi rice?

First, the rice is washed to remove the excess starch. This is not just rinsing it but actually scrubbing it against the side or bottom of the vessel. The process is repeated until the water is clear.

Next, the rice is cooked with the exact right amount of heat, water, and time. The precise amount of moisture in the uncooked rice will differ with the humidity and other variables, so getting it right requires refined judgment.

The cooked rice is then poured into a wide ceramic or wooden pan and fanned to avoid condensation by cooling it quickly. To mix the seasoned vinegar into the rice without destroying the kernels, these ingredients are lightly folded together with a wooden paddle.

Aren’t you glad you asked? But seriously, next time you eat at an excellent sushi bar, pay attention to the rice. The proof is in the rice (not the pudding—or the fish).